La Cocina Vasca – If you’ve ever been to the Basque region of Spain, you’ll have discovered the wonderful food that’s associated with the area. I recall the most fabulous pintxos in downtown Biarritz, and one of the most delicious (and best value) Spanish meals I’ve ever eaten. And now I can introduce you to a lovely new book that will take you on a virtual tour of this region…La Cocina Vasca, by María José Sevilla. It was published last month by Ryland Peters and Small at £22 for a beautifully illustrated hardback book.
In Cocina Vasca, María José takes readers on an illuminating tour of the Basque region. Along the way she introduces iconic ingredients, unique cooking techniques and traditional dishes that have inspired some of today’s most celebrated chefs. An introduction to Basque cooking, ranging from those aforementioned bite-sized tapas known as pintxos, to more substantial fish and meat plates as well as delicious desserts, including, of course, the legendary Basque Cheesecake (see below for recipe). Essays that shine a light on the most interesting aspects of historical food traditions, as well as the modern scene, are set against a backdrop of the stunning images of the people and surrounding landscape.
María José is an expert in Hispanic gastronomy and viticulture. She has written a number of books including Cocina de Andalucia which I reviewed a while ago.
Here, for your mouth watering trip to Spain, are a couple of recipes from this lovely book.
Pintxo de tomate, pimiento del Padrón y jamón Ibérico
TOMATOES, PADRÓN PEPPERS & IBÉRICO HAM ON TOAST MAKES 6
This particular pintxo can be scaled up for brunch; simply increase the quantities and serve on thick slices of the best rustic bread you can find.
3 tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
few drops of sherry vinegar
6 padrón peppers
6 slices of rustic bread, toasted
1 fat garlic clove, peeled and halved
6 slices of Ibérico ham (with plenty of fat)
pinch of coarse sea salt flakes
SHERRY REDUCTION
1 tablespoon Pedro Ximénez sherry
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
To make the sherry reduction, heat the Pedro Ximénez sherry and sherry vinegar in a small saucepan until it has reduced by one-third.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a frying pan. Once hot, place the tomatoes, cut side down, in the pan so they are not touching each other. Season with sea salt. Add a few drops of sherry vinegar along with the sherry reduction, then cook until the tomatoes take on a little colour, turning them only once.
At the same time, in a separate pan, cook the padrón peppers in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil for a few minutes until lightly charred. Season with sea salt.
To assemble the pintxos, rub the toast with the cut-side of the garlic clove, then drizzle with a few drops of the olive oil. Top each slice of toast with some ham, a few tomatoes and a padrón pepper. Serve hot, as soon as possible after cooking the tomatoes and peppers.
Tarta de queso de La Viña en San Sebastián
BAKED CHEESECAKE FROM LA VIÑA IN SAN SEBASTIÁN SERVES 6–8
“It is easy to understand why this Basque baked cheesecake has become so popular, admired throughout the whole of Spain and, indeed, across the rest of the world. It has an unusual caramelised – almost burnt – exterior with the creamiest, silkiest interior. It was created in 1990 by Santiago Rivera, chef patron of La Viña in the heart of the Basque city of San Sebastián.
“This cheesecake rapidly became known as ‘the jewel in the Spanish sweet crown’. For me, it is certainly one of the jewels, as there are many.”
570 g cream cheese (such as Philadelphia)
4 large eggs
230 g caster sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
10 g plain flour, sifted
285 ml double cream
deep 18-cm/7-inch springform cake tin with removable base
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/Gas 6.
Tear off a sheet of parchment paper that is large enough to line the entire cake tin and generously extend well over the top edge. Dampen with water to soften the paper and then, using both hands, ring out as much of the water as possible. Line the cake tin with the paper.
Put the cream cheese into a deep mixing bowl. Using an electric hand mixer, slowly incorporate the eggs, one by one. Add the sugar and vanilla extract, then
whisk again. Do the same with the flour.
Once all these ingredients are well blended, gradually add the cream until fully incorporated.
Pour the cheesecake mixture into the lined cake tin. Bake in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until the top looks almost burnt, but the inside is just
set.
Leave to cool completely, then remove from the cake tin and peel away the parchment paper before slicing and serving.
The Seasoned Gastronome