Cucina Del Veneto: A Venetian Delight – I adore Venice. It’s such a romantic city, and on the two occasions I’ve visited, we’ve enjoyed the most amazing food and drink. I’d love to go again soon, but in the meantime, I’m poring over a fabulous new cookbook that is a virtual trip to Venice – the photography is stunning, and the recipes are mouthwatering.
Cucina del Veneto is by Ursula Ferrigno and published by Ryland, Peters & Small at £22 for a hardback, packed photos by Clare Winfield. Ursula’s a talented cook and prolific food writer, who grew up among the sun-drenched lemon groves and vineyards of Italy’s rugged Amalfi Coast. She embodies the Italian and Mediterranean passion for good food made from the freshest natural ingredients. If, like me, you’re a fan of either the city of Venice or its cuisine, I’d urge you to discover this book too.
In the meantime, here are a couple of recipes to give you a taste of ‘la dolce vita’:
Radicchio in Saor
(Serves 4–6)
“I’ve grown up safe in the knowledge that radicchio is special, not only for my father’s business but as a tasty, health-giving vegetable that is extremely versatile and grows well in the fertile soil of the Veneto and other areas. Please try a crostini with this particular topping.”
40 g raisins
8 heads of radicchio treviso
2 medium onions
1 tablespoon olive oil
75 ml red wine vinegar
30 g pine nuts
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Leave the raisins to steep in a little lukewarm water for 20 minutes.
Wash the radicchio, dry well and cut each into 4 pieces lengthways.
Peel and finely slice the onions, cook in a large pan with the olive oil and cook until it is lightly coloured.
Add the vinegar and then the pine nuts. Next, add the radicchio and continue cooking over a medium heat, stirring now and then, for about 12 minutes.
Add the extra virgin olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.
This saor can be served on crostini as cicchetti (you will need to cut the radicchio into smaller pieces to top the crostini) and can also be served as an antipasto.
Baked Fennel & Cheese / Finocchio al Formaggio
(serves 6)
“Making this dish recently for a group of students, everyone was a little alarmed at my method as everything seems to go into the oven very quickly and with very little fuss. The results were so good however, that I converted a few opinions.
“Fontina is a truly celebrated cheese from high in the alpine meadows of Valle d’Aosta –the flavour for me is of honey, fruit and nuts. It is perfect with white truffles, if you ever have the opportunity.”
6 fennel bulbs
50 g unsalted butter
115 g Fontina cheese, freshly grated (blue cheese also works well)
freshly grated nutmeg
50 ml whole milk
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/425°F/Gas 7.
Trim the fennel bulbs, reserving any fronds for later, and discard the tough outer layers.
Cut the bulbs into small wedges and cook in a small amount of boiling salted water until tender. Drain and place in a greased baking dish.
Dot the fennel with a little of the butter, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the fennel with the grated Fontina, sprinkle with a pinch of nutmeg and pour over the milk.
Dot with the remaining butter, then bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes until crisp and golden. Serve hot with the reserved fennel fronds scattered over the top.
Note: Fennel bulbs are often referred to as either male or female. This relates to the two different natural shapes of the bulbs (male bulbs are elongated; female bulbs are round). There is no real difference in flavour once they are roasted, but, I Iike to use 3 male and 3 female when I make this dish.
The Seasoned Gastronome