Idyllic Dining at Idali – If you haven’t been up to Olympia for a while, you’re in for a big surprise. The spectacular space that first welcomed Londoners 140 years ago has been restored. And this is quite a restoration, as it’s part of Olympia’s £1.3bn transformation and now houses Grade II* listed Pillar Hall. Being the scene of Britain’s earliest film screenings and the venue for the first catwalk show from Vivienne Westwood, it is rather special. At 30,000 sq. ft, this all day to late night destination – conceived by restaurateur Des Gunewardena (co-founder of D&D London) of D3 Collective – signals the start of Olympia’s long-anticipated reinvention. Pillar Hall has recently unveiled Idalia, a glamorous all-day dining destination, so I couldn’t wait to check it out.
It is almost directly opposite the Olympia station entrance, and one steps up an elegant staircase into another world. It’s an opulent, slightly theatrical place, with massive Corinthian columns draped with climbing plants, there’s bold upholstery that oozes style, and a generally fashionable air that echoes its interesting history.
In the middle is a large oval bar, with an orangey, backlit crowning panel, giving a warm glow and a regal feel. There is an incredible mass of greenery everywhere, worthy of one of the greenhouses at Kew.
Alexandra, our friendly and highly efficient server, welcomed my pal Jacqui and me and we were offered a glass of refreshing Coates & Seely English sparkling wine. Jacqui doesn’t drink, so was given an alternative – Wild Idol, in my opinion one of the best alcohol-free sparkling’s.
The place was buzzing. Quite a few tables of large groups in parties were near to us, but the noise carried well. Our table was right underneath a rather large tree, which wasn’t ideal as it took a lot of the light, and was slightly overwhelming. The menu is well composed, not excessively large, based on modern British cuisine, with an international element that’s quite Asian-influenced.
To start, Jacqui chose the Crab salad, mango, chilli, ginger, coriander & shaved coconut. I opted for the Burrata, lovage pesto, broad beans, basil & pine nut.
The salad was presented in the most incredible shell shaped dish, like something one would find in an Italian palace. Jacqui enjoyed her starter, but felt it to be slightly light on the mango, but the shaved coconut added an interesting texture and crunch to the dish.
My burrata…what can I say? The lovage pesto was a revelation. It had a crunchy topping and sat atop a broad bean purée. It was rich, yet cooling and refreshing and incredibly delicious. I grow lovage, and use it in a number of recipes, but this took pesto to another level.
For our mains, the signature dish of Lobster Linguine with datterini tomatoes, chilli, garlic and basil appealed to Jacqui, while I chose Miso crusted black cod, bok choi, chilli & spring onion.
The pasta was beautifully presented with the lobster removed from its shell and carefully replaced for ease of eating. The whole dish was well executed, with the lobster being very flavourful and the level of heat from the chili just right. The roast tomatoes added an element of sweetness. The bisque-like sauce was deemed excellent and the portion size generous.
My cod was served on a large bamboo leaf topped with a bed of bok choi. The number of chillies was rather too plentiful for my taste, but easily spotted and moved to the side. It was a deliciously spicy dish. I should mention that the lovely Alexandra had suggested we share a couple of sides: Heirloom tomatoes, blood orange & basil salad as well as a portion of Beef tallow chunky chips, with rosemary salt.
The salad sounded like a great idea, and we both declined the chips: initially. Alexandra urged us to try a portion, and we were so glad we did. They were probably the best chips I’ve tasted in a very long time – fat, crispy on the outside and gloriously squidgy in the middle – and so very moreish and tasty.
I enjoyed a glass of Chablis, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard 2024, with my main, that paired perfectly. The excellent wine list has 28 different wines by the glass and they are well priced, starting at £9.
Our decision to share a pudding was a sensible one. The signature desserts: Vivienne Heel – which is for two anyway – was sold out, but is, by all accounts, pretty spectacular. The pistachio cheesecake was really, really good. Served flanked by a pile of massive fresh raspberries and with a rich sauce. This sauce was rather heavy and difficult for our server to pour (who did comment that it was usually much thinner and easier to pour). The dish wasn’t too sweet, compared to many cheesecakes, but we still couldn’t manage to finish our portion. We wondered if a portion of ice cream might be a better accompaniment instead of the sauce, but it wouldn’t allow the theatrical pouring of the sauce at the table.
Our evening at Idalia was excellent and I’m keen to return soon. The whole place is very special indeed, and the service is friendly, yet highly professional. There’s a brilliant value set lunch for £29 (two course) or £34 (three) that has the fabulous burrata starter as well as the Sri Lankan chicken curry that I nearly chose the other evening. There’s also a Sunday roast menu that offers roast chicken or beef striploin with appropriate accompaniments.
The Seasoned Gastronome