Eat Copenhagen – I’ve yet to visit Denmark, but this book makes me really want to book a flight to Copenhagen! Eat Copenhagen is an updated version of Trine Hahnemann’s award-winning book, in a modern format with brand-new recipes and photography. Trine is a bestselling author of Scandinavian cookbooks (over 300,000 copies sold worldwide) and has lived in the heart of Copenhagen for more than 40 years. Today the restaurant scene in Copenhagen is thriving – in no small way due to the influence of the world-famous restaurant Noma that effectively introduced Nordic cuisine to the world. From the chic restaurants of Vesterbro to the buzzing streets of Nørrebro, eating in Copenhagen is quite unlike dining anywhere else in the world. Known for its innovation, the city’s calming vibe draws people from everywhere, and for good reason. Eat Copenhagen explores the feel and the taste of Copenhagen through the recipes – from early morning Cardamom Buns and Cinnamon Kringles to Christmassy Gløgg, Honey Bombs and Hot chocolate, through smørrebrøds and Scandi-style salads for summer – and interwoven stories of the city – the cafés and konditori, the markets and restaurants – so you can enjoy a little moment of hygge from home. Published by Quadrille at £18, with fabulous photography by © Columbus Leth, it’s a very tempting read. It will make you head to your nearest Ole and Steen to buy some of the delicious rye bread! Here are a couple of recipes to whet your appetite.
Rødbedefrikadeller/ Beetroot Patties Serves 4
“Root vegetables are a big part of Danish cuisine, and when you are going out to eat in Copenhagen, you will find beetroot cooked in many different ways. This recipe is a classic of mine. Here I serve the patties with rye bread and cream cheese spread. “
For the beetroot patties
500g [1lb 2oz] beetroot [beets]
100g [1 cup] rolled oats
50g [½ cup] breadcrumbs
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp sesame seeds
flavourless vegetable oil, to shallow fry
For the spread
200g [scant 1 cup] cream cheese
50g [¼ cup] plain yogurt
4 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
4 tbsp chopped dill
2 tbsp lemon juice
sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
rye bread, to serve
Peel and coarsely grate [shred] the beetroot. Mix all the ingredients for the patties, except the oil, in a large bowl, cover and allow to rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Heat enough oil for shallow frying in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat. Using a wet hand and a large spoon, form patties of the beetroot mixture and place in the pan.
Fry in batches until lightly browned on both sides.
In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients for the spread, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
Serve the beetroot patties and cream cheese spread with sliced rye bread.
Tarteletter/ Tartlets with Mushrooms in Cream. Makes 8 / Serves 4
“Tarteletter are made from savoury puff pastry, which you can make yourself, if you have time (see page 162), or buy ready-made. Traditionally, these tartlets are shaped like a small basket, then you add the filling and garnish it with herbs. I still make them this way – it is easy and you get crisp pastry. You can use any kind of filling. This recipe makes an autumnal tarteletter using mushrooms, but in the spring I make them with asparagus and peas. I would also make them with leftover meat and vegetables, or with crisp salad, cured salmon and horseradish cream. This dish used to be a popular starter at big family parties. When you visit classic smørrebrød places, they often have these on the menu.”
For the tartlets
500g [1lb 2oz] ready-made all-butter puff pastry
plain [all-purpose] flour, to dust
1 egg, lightly beaten
For the filling
500g [1lb 2oz] mushrooms
10g [2 tsp] salted butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 thyme sprigs
200ml [scant 1 cup] crème fraîche
juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
leaves from a small bunch of parsley, chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/Gas 6.
For the tartlets, roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 5mm [¼in] thick and cut out 16 rectangles. Score a lattice pattern over the tops of 8 of the rectangles: these will be the ‘lids’. Brush all the rectangles with the beaten egg.
Place them on a baking sheet and bake for 15–20 minutes until light golden brown. Take out of the oven and transfer to a wire rack.
Meanwhile, for the filling, rinse the mushrooms carefully, pat dry and cut them into slices. Melt the butter in a frying pan and sauté the garlic, thyme and mushrooms for 10 minutes.
Add the crème fraîche and let it simmer, stirring, until the cream has thickened. Season to taste with the lemon juice and some salt and pepper.
Spoon the hot mushroom cream over the bottoms of the pastry rectangles and sprinkle with the parsley. Top with the pastry lids and serve at once.
Fru Eckersberg Cake
A classic cake that everybody seems to have forgotten. I have never been able to fi nd out if the cake has anything to do with Eckersberg, the Danish Golden Age painter (probably not), but it is outstanding!
Serves 8–10
For the almond macaroon
salted butter, for the tin
300g [2¼ cups] blanched [skinned] almonds
300g [2 cups plus 2 tbsp] icing [confectioners’] sugar
6 egg whites
For the mocha cream
150g [²∕³ cup] softened salted butter
75g [½ cup] icing [confectioners’] sugar
75g [2½oz] dark [bittersweet] chocolate, 60–65% cocoa solids, finely chopped
50ml [3½ tbsp] very hot, extra-strong (brewed) coffee
1 egg yolk
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Line the base of a 24cm [9½in] diameter springform cake tin with baking parchment and butter it lightly.
For the almond macaroon, grind the nuts in a food processor until they are finely chopped.
Transfer to a bowl and sift in the icing sugar, blending well. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff, then gradually fold in the nut mixture. Scrape the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 50–60 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave the cake,
still on its baking parchment, on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then peel off the parchment and let the cake cool completely.
For the mocha cream, beat the butter and icing sugar together in a bowl until pale and fluffy. Put the chopped chocolate in a jug, pour over the very hot coffee and leave
until the chocolate has melted, stirring occasionally. When the chocolate has completely
melted, stir in the egg yolk. Add the chocolate mixture to the butter mixture and mix it well.
Carefully – it is very fragile! – place the cake on a serving dish or board. Spread the mocha cream evenly over the cake using a palette knife. Refrigerate the cake until ready to serve.
The Seasoned Gastronome