A True Taste of Morocco – I’ve long been a fan of Morocco, I’ve visited a number of times and, in fact, also helped with publicity for the Moroccan Tourist Office here in the UK. Moroccan food is fabulous. Spicy and scented, fruity and sweet, offering creative combinations of cumin and ginger, honey and cinnamon, saffron and rose, chillies and turmeric, nuts, marinated olives and preserved lemons, served in painted, earthenware bowls and tagines… It’s no wonder the food of Morocco has been described as its “perfumed soul”. Freshly baked or griddled bread, sweetmeats and fruit are offered to greet guests, and wherever you go a glass of hot, sweet mint tea is the essence of hospitality. Morocco, the land of the setting sun, is the western part of the Arab world and a geographical door to the rest of Africa. Its cooking traditions have been shaped by invaders and settlers from the ancient Romans and Arabs to the Ottomans, Spaniards and the French. This rich history and culinary culture are vividly displayed as you travel through the country. It has its roots in Africa but its branches touch the Mediterranean.
The Moroccan Cookbook by Ghillie Basan is the culmination of years of research, an evocative volume by this award-winning author and cook explores the history and customs of Morocco, as well as the local ingredients, and presents a mouthwatering selection of more than 145 classic recipes. The vibrant location photographs are by adventurer Alice Morrison, who lives in Imlil and whose expeditions have been documented in films and books. It’s a fabulous book, published by Lorenz Books at £20 for a beautifully illustrated hardback – a veritable trip to Morocco! Here are some recipes to whet your appetite:
Sautéed herb salad with chilli and preserved lemon Serves four
“Firm-leafed fresh herbs, such as flat leaf parsley and mint tossed in a little olive oil and seasoned with salt, are fabulous to serve as a salad in a kemia spread, or go wonderfully with spicy kebabs or tagines. Lightly sautéed with garlic and served warm with yogurt, this dish is delightful even on its own.”
large bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley
large bunch of fresh mint large bunch of fresh coriander
bunch of rocket
large bunch of spinach leaves (about 115g/4oz)
60–75ml/4–5 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 green or red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
½ preserved lemon, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
45–60ml/3–4 tbsp Greek (strained plain) yogurt, to serve
Roughly chop the herbs, rocket and spinach. Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan. Stir in the garlic and chilli, and fry until they begin to colour. Toss in the herbs, rocket and spinach and cook gently, until they begin to soften and wilt. Add the preserved lemon and season to taste. Serve the salad warm with a dollop of yogurt. Making garlic-flavoured yogurt: For additional flavour, crush a clove of garlic and stir it into the yogurt with salt and ground pepper to taste.
Mini saffron fish cakes with chilled sweet cucumber and cinnamon salad Serves four
“This scented cucumber salad makes a superbly refreshing accompaniment for the fish cakes. Both the fish cakes and salad include the sweet and spicy flavours that are so popular in Moroccan food. If you’re in a rush and can’t get fresh fish, canned tuna makes a good substitute. Make the salad in advance to allow time for chilling before serving. “
450g/1lb white fish fillets, such as sea bass, ling or haddock, skinned and cut into chunks
10ml/2 tsp harissa
rind of ½ preserved lemon, finely chopped
small bunch of fresh coriander, finely chopped
1 egg
5ml/1 tsp honey
pinch of saffron threads, soaked in 5ml/1 tsp water
salt and ground black pepper
sunflower oil, for frying
For the salad:
2 cucumbers, peeled and grated
juice of 1 orange
juice of ½ lemon 1
5–30ml/1–2 tbsp orange flower water
15–20ml/3–4 tsp sugar
2.5ml/½ tsp ground cinnamon
Place the cucumber in a strainer over a bowl and sprinkle with some salt. Leave to drain for about 10 minutes. Using your hands, squeeze out the excess liquid and place the cucumber in a bowl. In a small jug, combine the orange and lemon juice, orange flower water and sugar and pour over the cucumber. Toss well, sprinkle with cinnamon and chill for at least 1 hour.
To make the fish cakes, put the fish in a food processor. Add the harissa, preserved lemon, coriander, egg, honey, saffron with its soaking water, and seasoning, and whizz until smooth. Divide the mixture into 16 portions. Wet your hands under cold water to prevent the mixture from sticking to them, then roll each portion into a ball and flatten in the palm of your hand.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the fish cakes in batches, until golden brown on each side. Drain the fish cakes on kitchen paper and keep hot until all the fish cakes are cooked. Serve immediately with the chilled cucumber salad.
Sautéed chicken livers with orange flower water and roasted hazelnuts Serves four
“Sautéed offal, such as liver and kidney, is a popular appetizer, often cooked simply in olive oil and garlic and served with lemon to squeeze over. This dish of chicken livers makes a delicious, tangy appetizer on its own, served with a few salad leaves, or spooned on thin slices of toasted bread. In the restaurants of Casablanca, where the French influence still lingers, you will find variations of this dish using lamb’s liver too. “
30–45ml/2–3 tbsp olive oil
2–3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 dried red chilli, chopped
5ml/1 tsp cumin seeds
450g/1lb chicken livers, trimmed and cut into bite size chunks
5ml/1 tsp ground coriander
handful of roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped
10–15ml/2–3 tsp orange flower water
½ preserved lemon, finely sliced or chopped
salt and ground black pepper
small bunch of fresh coriander, chopped
fresh salad leaves, to serve
Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and stir in the garlic, chilli and cumin seeds. Add the chicken livers and toss over the heat until they are browned on all sides. Reduce the heat a little and continue to cook for 3–5 minutes. When the livers are almost cooked, add the ground coriander and hazelnuts. Stir in the orange flower water and preserved lemon. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and sprinkle with a little fresh coriander. Serve immediately with salad leaves.
Variation: Lamb’s liver, trimmed and finely sliced, is also good cooked this way. The trick is to sear the outside so that the middle is almost pink and melts in the mouth. If you don’t have orange flower water, try a little balsamic vinegar.
The Seasoned Gastronome