Great Value at Sam’s – I wrote about my delicious dinner at Sam’s Waterside in Brentford a couple of years ago, shortly after it opened.
I was tempted back recently, though, when I heard reports of its excellent value set menu…
It was a gloriously sunny day but slightly windy, so on arrival we decided to eat indoors, rather than on the nice terrace. We still had great views of the boats moored nearby, while I sipped my Campari spritz and my husband enjoyed a refreshing sparkling water.
I should start by saying what amazing value this set menu offers: two courses for £20 and three for £25. (with a veggie option at each) We were tempted to try the Dorset Crab Toasts (£15) that had been specially recommended and I’m glad we did – they were really delicious and a fabulous ‘amuse bouche’ that promised great things to follow. The three toast fingers of crispy sourdough had been generously piled with crab and sprinkled with subtle herbs – just the right amount to avoid detracting from the crab. They were on the pricey side, compared to the set menu, but with the amazing value of the rest of the meal, definitely worth it.
There is a choice of three starters and I opted for Cured Sea Trout, Ponzu Dressing, Pickled Courgette, Edamame and Trout Roe. My husband chose the Chicken Liver Parfait with Cornichons and Sourdough Toast.
My starter was delicious – the kitchen had forgotten to add the trout roe, but to be honest, it didn’t need it. It was light, refreshing, very tasty and the ideal starter on a sunny day.The Ponzu dressing added a delicate piquancy, and the pickled courgettes were a new one to me (and one I’m going to try at home).
The chicken liver parfait was slightly ‘wetter’ than expected, but excellent, and deliciously rich. Again, perfectly finished with pea shoots, lettuce and radicchio.
I chose Corn-Fed Chicken, Charred Corn, Black Garlic, Wild Mushroom and Poulette Sauce for my main and my better half selected Pan Fried Mackerel, Roasted & Pickled Beetroot, Horseradish Creme Fraiche.
Sauteed Green Beans with Toasted Almonds as a side dish and, of course, a portion of French Fries for my husband.
The chicken was deliciously moist and a generous breast fillet. The black garlic was a ‘ketchup’ and added interest, together with the charred corn. A grilled shallot added further texture and flavour. The green beans were crispy and the perfect accompaniment. This was a plate of food that I would have expected to cost considerably more, and it was a surprise to find such quality in a set menu.
The mackerel fillet had a beautifully crisp skin and the beets – a mix of pickled and roast – were an earthy and great pairing. My husband felt that the horseradish, while softened by the creme fraiche, was rather too strong and harsh for the delicate mackerel (but of course, it’s up to the customer to add it as desired, as it was served alongside).
For dessert, Strawberry Eton Mess appealed to my husband, and I was tempted by the Vanilla Creme Brulee. The Eton Mess was attractively presented in a glass, and the strawberries had been diced and marinaded in a delicious syrup. The Creme Brulee was, as expected, very rich, but the perfect, dinky size with a crisp topping. It was well worth those extra calories!
I had enjoyed with my meal a glass of the lovely house white – a Viognier Deakin Estate, Victoria, Australia 2005 (£9.50) that showcased the skill of Sam’s sommelier.
Reader, I’d urge you to check out this set menu – which as well as lunch, is also available for early dinner Tuesday – Thursday from 5-6.30 – so ideal for pre cinema. It really does offer superb value and exemplary service and ambience.
Incidentally, Sam’s is now open for breakfast every day with an interesting selection of breakfast choices. Check out the menus at samswaterside.co.uk
The Seasoned Gastronome