Some Rather Special Wines – I was invited to taste some extraordinarily fine Italian wines at a very special wine event recently, and it was a great honour to be there. It was hosted by Elena Casadei and the wines to which I was introduced are produced by the Casadei family, which owns and manages a collection of four Demeter organic certified wine estates in Italy. Famiglia Casadei is a family-led group of estates located across Tuscany and Sardinia, united by a shared vision of terroir-driven winemaking and holistic sustainability. From Chianti Rufina to Alta Maremma, Sardinia, and the Casentino, each estate reflects its own landscape and microclimate.
Tenuta Casadei is located in Alta Maremma, near Suvereto which is 13km from the coast. The estate and winery were established in 2000 by Stefano Casadei. His goal was to grow vines with respect for the environment and create unique, authentic wines. A meeting with Fred Cline, a winemaker from Sonoma, prompted Stefano to adopt his values of environmental care and thus drove the `bio integrale` idea for the estate, developing sustainable agriculture and biodynamic techniques. Stefano`s daughter Elena is now heavily involved with the winemaking, and she started integrating amphorae into production, with the aim of keeping these ancient winemaking tools in the modern era. Amphora wine refers to wines that have been fermented or aged in clay vessels (amphorae), an ancient technique dating back over 8,000 years to modern-day Georgia. Unlike oak barrels, clay is flavour-neutral, allowing the pure characteristics of the grape and terroir to shine without adding notes of vanilla or spice.
Castello del Trebbio, situated in Chianti Rufina, is the historical headquarters of the Casadei family, where it all began: a historic 12th-century castle purchased by the Baj Macario family (parents of Stefano’s wife Anna) in 1968, that spans 350 hectares, surrounded by hills and woods.
Tenuta Casadei is located in the Alta Maremma region, near the medieval village of Suvereto, very close to the Tuscan coast. It was acquired in 1998 as a partnership between Stefano Casadei and the aforementioned Fred Cline and covers 16 hectares.
Tenuta Olianas, established in 2000 through a collaboration between Stefano Casadei and the local Olianas family, spans over 35 hectares in the Sarcidano region, in the heart of Sardinia. It is the only Demeter-organic-certified company on the entire island and is also classified as a Biodiversity Friend.
The family’s most recent project, with the first bottles being presented in 2024 (vintage 2022), is Terre di Romena: a 20-hectare property, seven of which are vines, situated in the Casentino forest region of eastern Tuscany, characterised by high-altitude viticulture.
Le Anfore di Elena Casadei is more than a winemaking project; it is a cultural statement. Through her work with terracotta amphorae, both Tuscan Impruneta vessels and ancient Georgian qvevri, Elena Casadei seeks to dissolve the filters that often separate grapes from place, allowing each terroir its most essential voice. Amphorae and a philosophy of minimal intervention define the labels from all the family’s estates, shaping fabulous wines that have evolved slowly.
Elena’s goal is clear: to rediscover what is often muted by prolonged wood ageing and to reconnect wine with its original language. Vine, terroir, and vintage: for this reason, across all the estates of the Casadei family, amphorae play a central and unifying role. Elena is self-effacing, charming and obviously a powerful force among the emerging band of female wine makers. I would urge you to look out for her wines
The family’s philosophy, known as Bio Integrale®, goes beyond organic farming to embrace biodiversity, ethical agriculture, and long-term environmental balance. New approaches are found through projects such as Le Anfore di Elena Casadei, exploring amphora fermentation as a contemporary cultural expression.
Wine tourism is an extension of Casadei’s vision: the main estate, Castello del Trebbio, hosts events and welcomes visitors from all over the world, about 20.000 per year. The agriturismo was created through conservative restoration: former sharecroppers’ houses have been transformed into guest accommodations without altering their architectural soul. The family is currently working on a new project for the Runfina area, the Stazione Sieci, focused on turning Pontassieve railway station into a true cultural hub for the local community, promoting slow and conscious travel. The space wants to function as a starting point for curated activities such as vineyard walks, bike tours, tastings, seasonal events, outdoor experiences, and food-and-wine gatherings.
Tenuta Olianas in Sardinia offers a range of warm and welcoming hospitality experiences, too. Guests can start tasting wines and estate-produced EVO oil with local delicacies at the winery, or they can explore the vineyards at their own pace and enjoy a picnic basket filled with typical Sardinian products and a bottle of Olianas wine. An appreciated alternative is a sensory journey that includes exploring local history and archaeology (like the Giants of Mont’e Prama), and many tourists love their cooking classes, followed by eating the Sardinian classic meal with wine pairings.
The wines are stocked by specialist wine shops and good restaurants. They’re not cheap, but they also aren’t that expensive, especially when you consider and appreciate their quality. Do look out for them when you’re eating out or searching for some rather special organic wines as gifts, or for your own enjoyment at home: Castello del Trebbio (Chianti Rufina); Terre di Romena (Casentino – Arezzo); Tenuta Casadei (Suvereto) and Olianas (Sardinia).
The Seasonal Gastronome